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Precautions to avoid injury or damage.
Britten Crags is a popular rock climbing destination located in the Port Hills of Christchurch. Situated high up on the eastern side of Heathcote Valley, just below the crest of the major spur from Mt Pleasant, this cliffline offers a unique and challenging climbing experience.
Named after the motorcycle entrepreneur John Britten, the crags are part of the Christchurch City Council's John Britten Reserve. With its proximity to the city and accessibility, Britten Crags is the go-to destination for both local and visiting climbers.
The crags consist of approximately 260 short climbs, ranging up to 25 metres in height. Most of the climbs are bolted sport climbs, equipped with 10 mm stainless steel bolts and double-bolt anchor stations. The anchor stations commonly have paired Fixe ring hangers for added safety.
While the bolting is done to a sport climbing standard with closely-spaced bolts, there are also traditional climbs that rely on a few pieces of trad gear. Climbers should be aware of the mix of bolted and trad climbs available at Britten Crags.
The rock at Britten Crags is horizontally flow-banded trachyte from the Lyttelton volcano. The quality of the rock is not the highest, with holds being brittle and prone to breaking. The rock can also be friable, meaning it may crumble underfoot. Most loose material has been removed from popular climbs, but climbers should still exercise caution.
Britten Crags has a rich history of climbing. Local climbers began exploring the area in the mid-70s, establishing both bolted and trad routes. During the 90s, the crag was partially closed by the landowner. However, some climbers ventured onto the crags and established a number of sport climbs.
In 1999, climbers became aware of the City Council's proposal to purchase the area as a new reserve. This spurred a frenzy of route development, with numerous new routes added by the end of 2000. The development continued over the following years, and today Britten Crags offers a comprehensive range of climbs for all skill levels.
The Canterbury earthquake sequence of 2010-2011 had some impact on the crags. Parts of The Roofs area, Shit Buttress, Winter Wall, and The Zoo experienced collapses. However, over 90% of the climbs remain unaffected. Climbers should exercise caution and be mindful of any loose rocks they may encounter.
Visiting climbers should take note of the unique challenges and risks associated with climbing at Britten Crags. It is important to understand the rock quality, respect the bolting standards, and take all necessary precautions to ensure a safe and enjoyable climbing experience.
