Wildcat Crag, located near Matlock Bath in the Peak District, is a popular rock climbing destination that caters to climbers, hill walkers, and mountaineers. Situated on limestone rock, this crag offers a diverse selection of classic long and mid-grade routes, making it an ideal spot for climbers of varying skill levels.
Access to Wildcat Crag has recently been updated following discussions with Manor Adventure, the landowner. Climbers can now access the crag via abseil, as per the previous agreement. The old approach, which involved a gap in the boundary wall below the crag level, is no longer accessible. Instead, climbers must walk to the top of the crag and abseil down to the base.
It is crucial for climbers to adhere to this new approach and respect the landowner's conditions of access.
The crag is located within a parcel of land currently used for outdoor education of children and young adults. To ensure the safety and security of these individuals, the landowners have created a secure boundary around the site. Climbers are restricted to the immediate proximity of the crag, creating a buffer zone between the climbing area and other parts of the site. A new fence has been installed to prevent public access, and climbers must not attempt to climb over it or access the crag through the river level gate.
It is essential for climbers to self-police and follow these guidelines. Instructors using the river below and security cameras monitor the fence line. Any attempts to access the crag via the fence will be noted by site staff and could result in access being withdrawn. Climbers are encouraged to inform others who may be attempting to climb over the fence that it is not acceptable.
It is a collective responsibility to help keep access open.
At present, there are four in-situ abseil stations at the top of Jackdaw Grooves, Lynx, Tut's Anomalous, and Climacteric. Once climbers have abseiled into the crag, they should remain in proximity to the base, away from site users. Access to the four smaller crags south of Wildcat Main Crag (Upper Tor, Mill Tor, Woodbank Tor, and Mole Trap Buttress) is no longer granted due to their proximity to areas used by children.
In case of emergencies requiring access on foot to the base of the crag, climbers can use the gate at river level. They should contact Manor Adventure at Willersley Castle and request a member of staff to unlock the gate.
Certain sections of Wildcat Crag, such as Puma Buttress, Slippery Slabs, and New Bridge Buttress, are not located within the grounds of Manor Adventure and can be accessed without any issues.
Wildcat Crag provides an exciting rock climbing experience in a beautiful and challenging setting. Climbers must respect the conditions of access and prioritise safety and the well-being of others using the site.